Jessica Shick

Know Your Natives: Holly

By Jessica Shick • December 9, 2024

Writted by Debbie C. Somerset County Rutgers Master Gardener

Who doesn’t cheer at the sight of the iconic red berries and evergreen branches of Holly during the December holidays? Over 480 species populate the genus Ilex yet the term “Holly” traditionally references English Holly (Ilex aquifolium), a Christmas decoration brought to the United States with colonists. The Latin Ilex means “evergreen oak” but some are deciduous and lose their leaves. All Ilex produce insignificant flowers and are dioecious. Male and female plants are required to produce drupes or stone fruits, not true berries. The drupes provide an important food source for birds, though they are toxic to humans. All Ilex prefer acidic soil. This versatile group includes four species native to New Jersey and Somerset County.

Ilex opaca cultivar "Miss Butler" with red berries — Ilex opaca “Miss Butler.” Plant Image Library, CC BY-SA 2.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

Ilex opaca cultivar "Bird Park" with white flowers — Ilex opaca “Miss Butler.” Plant Image Library, CC BY-SA 2.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

American Holly (Ilex opaca) a pyramidal, evergreen tree with gray bark, most reminded colonists of English or Christmas Holly. The greenish white flowers appearing in May and June provide nectar for honeybees and butterflies. The tree serves as a host plant for butterfly and moth larvae and provides cover and nesting for birds as well as red drupes. Reaching 40-50 feet in height and 18-40 feet in width, this highly deer resistant tree thrives in full sun, part sun and shade. It prefers soil which drains well. The only native Holly with spiny, leathery green leaves, the fine textured and white wood of American Holly found use in cabinetwork as inlays. An interesting fact: The Holly collection at Rutgers Gardens began as a collaboration between the Holly Society of America and Dr. Elwin Orton to produce locally grown decorative branches for the holidays.

Ilex glabra cultivar "Pretty Girl" with rounded leaves and black berries — Photo by David J. Stang, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Inkberry (Ilex glabra), an evergreen shrub often used as a boxwood substitute in borders, hedges and foundation plantings, also blooms in May and June with greenish white insignificant flowers. Reaching 8 feet high and wide, Inkberry prefers full sun or part shade. It can naturalize in wet locations but will grow in dry soil as well. Inkberry tolerates deer and rabbit and produces black drupes.

Ilex verticillata, pointed green leaves with clusters of red berries along stem — Ilex verticillata, “Winterberry” Agnieszka Kwiecień, Nova, CC BY-SA 4.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

Ilex laevigata with oval leaves and red berries trailing along each stem — Ilex verticillata, “Winterberry” Agnieszka Kwiecień, Nova, CC BY-SA 4.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

Closely related Winterberry (Ilex verticillata) and Smooth Winterberry (Ilex laevigata) are deciduous shrubs reaching 6-10 feet in height and spread. Difficult to distinguish from each other when not in flower or fruit, Winterberry produces greenish white flowers in June and July and drupes in late summer to fall, while Smooth Winterberry produces white to cream flowers from May to July and fruits from September to February. Both prefer full sun or part shade and moist soil. They tolerate boggy, swampy conditions making them useful for rain gardens and along streams. Most noticeable after leaf drop, the red drupes help provide year-round interest.

You may be able to spot these varieties and more in the Holly Collection at Rutgers Gardens.

The Trouble with Boxwoods

By Jessica Shick • November 15, 2024

Written by Mousumi P., Somerset County Rutgers Master Gardener

The Somerset County Rutgers Master Gardener Helpline has been getting many inquiries lately about Boxwoods. Boxwoods, with its many species and cultivars, are broad-leaved evergreen shrubs mostly used as foundation planting and backdrops for planting beds and formal gardens. Unfortunately they are often susceptible to several pests like leafminers, psyllids and boxwood blight disease. All of these concerns, in addition to the emerging threat of the Box Tree Moth raise the questions: what can be done, and what are some alternatives to these common landscape shrubs?

Boxwood Leafminer

Boxwood leafminer insects (Monarthropalpus flavus) feed on the tissue between the outer surfaces of the leaves. The feeding leads to blotch-shaped mines in the leaves and cause leaf drop from heavy infestation. For infested boxwoods, prune back about 1/3 to remove and dispose the affected stems. For larger infestations, Spinosad based pesticide can be applied.

Boxwood Psyllid

The Boxwood Psyllid insect (Psylla buxi) feeds on the leaves and buds of the boxwood causing the leaves to curl and cup. Luckily the damage caused to the boxwoods is mostly aesthetic. Infested branches can be pruned out and disposed. For larger infestations, horticultural oil and insecticidal soap can be applied.

Boxwood Blight

Boxwood blight is caused by the fungus Cylindrocladium  pseudonaviculatum. The damage begins with leaf spots followed by rapid browning. Leaf drops start on the lower branches and move up the canopy. Also, narrow black streaks (cankers) develop on the green stems. Repeated defoliation and dieback can kill the entire plant. For diagnosis and management, contact landscapers and lawn care professionals, as the infected plants needs to removed, including fallen leaves.

Alternatives to Boxwoods

If you’re removing a boxwood due to any of these common issues, or if you’re looking for a low-maintenance hedge and would rather avoid the boxwood, there are luckily many alternatives available. The three listed below are all hardy for New Jersey and considered to be deer resistant.

Inkberry Holly, Photo by David J. Stang, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Inkberry Holly, Ilex glabra

Full sun to part shade
NJ Native.
Cultivar ‘Gem Box’ has small boxwood-like leaves and dwarf habit.

Bayberry, Myrica pennsylvanica

Full sun to part shade
Salt tolerant for coastal areas or near roads treated with de-icing salt
NJ Native.
The female plants produce a small gray waxy fruit that is attractive to certain birds and was traditionally used to make candles.

Plum Yew, Cephalotaxus harringtonia

Shade Tolerant
Dark green, flattened needle-shaped leaves.
Can be pruned to maintain form.

Sources:
Boxwoods: Now You See Them, Soon You Won’t! — Plant & Pest Advisory (rutgers.edu)
Boxwood: Identify and Manage Common Problems | University of Maryland Extension (umd.edu)
Alternatives to Boxwood | CALS (cornell.edu)

Deadheading for Continued Summer Blooms

By Jessica Shick • November 15, 2024

Written by Irene F., Somerset County Rutgers Master Gardener

If your perennials are looking a little worn out and tired after weeks of excessive heat followed by pouring rains, fear not! In most cases your plants can be rejuvenated with a little deadheading.

Summer beauties like daisies, blanket flower, hyssop, bee balm, and butterfly bush can be deadheaded for continued blooming throughout the season. Deadheading is achieved by pruning off the spent flower and the stem below it above a fresh set of leaves. Often there are many sets of leaves. You may choose to cut the stem further down to control the height or shape of the plant. Flowers like yarrow, bellflower, coreopsis, geranium, phlox, and lavender all benefit from a little haircut.

Not all perennials can be deadheaded. Some, like Nepeta (catmint)need to be cut back for complete re-flush of blooms.

Not all flowers need to be deadheaded. Plants like peony, azalea, spring bulbs, and some hydrangeas are exceptions. They don’t need to be deadheaded unless you want:

a more attractive garden by removing unsightly brown flowers
to avoid letting the flowers to go to seed
the plant to focus its energy on root or bulb development rather than the spent flowers

Many yellow coreopsis flowers at various stages. Some blooms have started fading and could use deadheading. — Joyce Cory, CC BY 2.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Know Your Natives: Solidago sp.

By Jessica Shick • September 30, 2024

Written by Debbie C., Somerset County Rutgers Master Gardener

Solidago species, commonly known as goldenrod, signal the changing of seasons from summer to autumn. A short-day, herbaceous, perennial in the Composite or Asteraceae family, different Solidago species bloom from July through October. Often challenging as a group to identify down to species, the golden yellow inflorescences consist of ray and disc flowers. One process, the Peterson Identification System, attempts to simplify the task by grouping flower forms as wand-like, plume-like, club-like, elm branched or flat topped.

Goldenrod grows from rhizomes, and some species can be aggressive, forming colonies. Native bees, honeybees, wasps, butterflies, moths, and beetles consume the pollen and nectar and act as insect pollinators of Solidago sp., spreading the heavy, sticky pollen. Nectar produced by goldenrod very often provides one of the final food sources for migratory butterflies. The plant also attracts predatory insects such as parasitoid tachinid flies which specialize in attacking squash and stink bugs. Parasitoid flies lay eggs on goldenrod growing points. The hatchling larva penetrate the stems which produce galls in response. Small galls in turn attract parasitoid wasps and beetles to insert their eggs, producing larva which feed on the original occupant larva. Larger galls are preferred by birds such as chickadees and small woodpeckers in the Spring. Additionally, goldenrod seeds feed some birds.

The Native Plant Society of New Jersey lists eleven species of Solidago as native to Somerset County, including the only white variety, Solidago bicolor. Depending on the species, goldenrod can be found in woodlands, openings, edges including roadsides, old pasture, and moist open thickets. Goldenrods are deer resistant. Incorrectly blamed for allergies this time of year, goldenrod blooms concurrently with another Composite family member: wind-pollinated, green-flowered, hay fever-producing ragweed. Historically, goldenrod found use in herbal medicine, dyes and in “Liberty Tea” made by colonists after the Boston Tea Party and the boycotting of British tea.

Fun fact – Goldenrod was first used as a yellow color name in 1915 and the Crayola Company coined it as a crayon color in 1958 in the 64-crayon box.

For more information about Solidago sp. and other native plants of New Jersey, or incorporating them into your home landscape, see the following links:

Rutgers Fact Sheet 1140: Incorporating Native Plants in Your Residential Landscape

Landscape Plants Rated by Deer Resistance

A close up of the yellow solidago flower against a background of green blades of grass — Matt Lavin, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Likin’ Lichen

By Jessica Shick • September 30, 2024

Written by Laura H., Somerset County Rutgers Master Gardener

Walking in a park, I often study tree bark and, not infrequently, find it patched with lichen. What is lichen, actually? Well, it can be tricky to classify, as lichen is composed of two or more different species which inhabit one organism. Typically, a fungus is the dominant species and primarily responsible for the physical characteristics of the lichen. The fungus composes about 80% of the body of the lichen, and absorbs moisture, takes in minerals from the air, and provides protection and support. In lichens, fungi are paired with algae, and occasionally cyanobacteria. The function of algae and cyanobacteria is to produce food via photosynthesis for the lichen. The fungi’s scientific name is adopted as the lichen’s genus name, while the species name is typically a Latin term which describes the lichen in some manner.

There are over 13,000 species of lichens around the world. They thrive in moderate temperate zones with enough moisture and light to meet their needs. Certain lichen species have adapted to extreme environs, such as desert, arctic, and mountainous terrain. Air pollution, though, is something that most lichens cannot tolerate easily; they act as leading indicators of unacceptable levels of atmospheric toxins.

There are three primary categories of lichens, based on their features and forms: crustose, or crust-like; foliose, or leaf-like; and fruticose, or bush-like. Younger trees tend to have smooth bark, which facilitates the growth of crustose lichen. Older trees, with uneven surfaces, are more likely to attract the faster-growing foliose and fruticose varieties. Lichens prefer deciduous trees over conifers, as deciduous trees allow more needed light to enter, especially during the winter months. Coniferous trees’ greater acidity is less favorable to lichen growth. Not only do lichens live on trees, but they can also be found on rocks, rusty metal, glass, cloth, plastic, bones, dead wood, and soil.

Lichens are considered beneficial in that their presence is an indication of atmospheric health. Their rhizomes do not penetrate or damage tree bark. Diseased trees may have lichens, but they are not the cause of the injury. Lichens are a food source for animals and are used as nesting material for birds. And, to me, lichen adds a touch of interest, in color, shape, and form to the park landscape.

For more information about lichen, see Rutgers Fact Sheet 1205: Tree-Dwelling Lichens

The Chrysler Herbarium of Rutgers University houses over 2,600 lichen specimens. Photos and information about them is available to the public, and can be accessed by clicking here.

Blue flaky lichen encrusts a twig laying in a bed of brown fallen leaves. — Lichen on a twig along the Trillium Trail, Fox Chapel, Pennsylvania. Cbaile19, CC0

A close up of green lichen on a brown twig with a green background. — Lichen, Tattykeeran by Kenneth Allen, CC BY-SA 2.0

A signpost encrusted in multiple types of lichen points right for "ALDER PATH" and a smaller arrow points left for "SHEPHERDS BRIDGE" — Lichen-encrusted signpost, Glen Banchor by Jim Barton, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The SCRMG Sensory Garden Hosts 4-H Campers

By Jessica Shick • September 27, 2024

Written by Mousumi P., Somerset County Rutgers Master Gardener

Earlier this summer, campers from 4-H TOPS Camp visited the Somerset County Rutgers Master Gardener’s Sensory Garden. Guided by the Rutgers Master Gardeners, the campers learned about all the ways a garden can incorporate plants and even non-plant items to enhance our five senses. We talked about colors, shapes, heights, and textures in the garden. The Herb section with its fragrant fennel, oregano, and thyme reminded the campers of their favorite foods. The listening exercise gave us a chance to be still and “hear” the garden with its soft sounds of birds, bees, windchimes, and even some planes and cars.

We toured the Edibles section and saw the strawberries, tomatoes and other vegetables and discussed our favorite yummies. The highlight of the visit however was the Scavenger Hunt. With their partners, the campers enjoyed fully exploring the garden to search for all the items… Some were a little tricky! We ended our visit by planting sunflower seeds in pots made of newspaper for the campers to take home to start their own garden. We had a great time with the 4-H TOPS Camp campers and hope to see them again next summer!

Two children peruse the scented and textured plants at the Rutgers Master Gardener Sensory Garden — Photo by Mousumi Patel, 2024. Somerset County Rutgers Master Gardeners Teaching Garden

Pollinator Gardens in Autumn

By Jessica Shick • September 26, 2024

Written by Kris G., Somerset County Rutgers Master Gardener

Many pollinators depend on leaf litter, herbaceous plant stalks, and plant debris to lay their eggs for overwintering. If we remove these items in the fall, then we are essentially removing the next generation of pollinators. Instead of disposing of leaf litter, dead herbaceous plant stalks, and plant debris from the pollinator garden, create a brush pile to put these items in so the next generation of pollinators can survive and flourish in the spring.

Having a general understanding of a native pollinator plant is helpful, but knowing what is offered to pollinators in the way of food and shelter is equally important. Planting a host plant, such as northern spice bush (Lindera benzoin), can offer both food and shelter to the spicebush swallowtail butterfly (Papillio Troilus). Similarly, swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) and common milkweed (Asclepias syrica) are host plants for the monarch butterfly (Danaus plexippus) as are other species of milkweed. If you have a host plant in your pollinator garden, chances are there will be countless eggs on leaf litter, inside dead hollow plant stalks, and plant debris so leaving the garden alone until springtime, once the eggs have had a chance to hatch would be ideal. Another option to ensure the health and safety of the next generation of pollinators would be to relocate the leaf litter, dead plant stalks, and plant debris to a brush pile in your yard.

Creating a colorful chart with the name of your native pollinator plant, a photo of the plant, the type of food (pollen, nectar, or both) offered, bloom time of the year, if the plant provides shelter, and whether the plant is a host plant to a specific pollinator would make for a fun fall project while helping you learn more about the bigger “pollinator picture.”

See below for links to additional information on pollinator survival:

Visit the Pollinator Garden at Rutgers Gardens.
Penn State Extension: Fall Garden Care for Pollinators
University of New Hampshire: How to Help Bees and Butterflies Survive Winter

Mountain mint, anise hyssop, Echinacea, and rudbeckia grow in a long garden lining a sidewalk. — Photo by Lauren Randolph, 2024. Franklin Township Library Pollinator Garden

Autumn’s coming… Time for turf renewal!

By Jessica Shick • September 3, 2024

Written by Laura H., Somerset County Rutgers Master Gardener

As the days grow shorter and temperatures cool, plants begin to prepare for the long winter ahead. Turf, in particular, requires our attention at this time of year. Timely fall upkeep will pay off in just a few short months, with verdant green turf carpets in spring! Here’s the game plan:

Weed control – Fall is an optimal time to manage many types of perennial weeds, which are difficult to control at other times of the year. Post-emergent herbicides are available which manage many types of broadleaf weeds. Ensure that the weeds you wish to control are listed on the product label.
Soil evaluation – Having your soil evaluated provides valuable information on specific fertilizer and pH amendment needs. Your evaluation results will make recommendations that will prevent you from adding fertilizer or lime that you may not need. The Rutgers Soil Testing Laboratory tests soil for a nominal fee.
Aeration – Aeration is an essential aspect of turf health in that it aids root growth by increasing access to oxygen. It mitigates soil compaction and provides a route for grass seed and amendments, such as lime, compost, and fertilizer to enter the soil. Aeration should be done when soil is somewhat moist. Aerators are typically set at 4” X 8” with ½” to ¾” tines; you will need to make several passes over your lawn for adequate aeration. They can be rented at hardware stores.
Organic additions – Adding organic matter helps to provide turf with the materials that it needs to stay vibrant and healthy as well as to improve soil health. There is no need to purchase special organic matter for your lawn. Mulched grass clippings less than 1” long can be left in the soil, recycling nitrogen and other nutrients. Mulched leaves can also serve as organic amendments for turf. Place your mower on the highest setting, mow the leaf pile. Mulching mowers can cut up to 6” of leaf height at a time but large piles may require several passes. Leaf mulch can then be spread over the lawn where the fine pieces will disintegrate by spring.
Overseeding – Select cool-season grass seed, such as fine fescue, tall fescue, perennial ryegrass, and Kentucky bluegrass when overseeding. Small patches can be managed by broadcasting seed with nitrogen fertilizer at a rate of one pound per 1000 square feet or by loosening the soil and sprinkling seed, then raking or covering over with 1/4 – 3/8” soil. For larger areas, slit seeders, available for rental at hardware stores, will effectively seed the lawn. Run the slit seeder twice, in perpendicular directions, at half the seeding rate indicated on the label for a well-seeded lawn. Mulch lightly with straw after seeding and irrigate until new grass is established. Begin mowing when the grass is at least 3” tall. Fertilize six weeks after germination.
Dethatching – A layer of roots, shoots, and stems, called thatch, can build up over time. Thatch layers over 1” deep can harbor pests, make roots vulnerable to drying out and oxygen starvation, place turf and crown at risk of mower damage, and act as a barrier between the soil surface and the roots. Dethatching machines can be rented at hardware stores. Removing too much thatch can be detrimental to the turf, thinning it excessively. Thatch which is 2” deep or more likely is the home of turf roots so removing too much thatch will also remove plants. Plan to seed areas of thinned-out turf, if necessary. Never dethatch when turf is stressed by heat or drought.
Fertilizing – Fertilize in September after the daytime high temperatures are below 90 F. A product with a mix of slow- and quick-release nitrogen, at a rate of one pound per 1000 square feet, will provide nutrients for stored energy as well as enhanced root development. Fertilizing in fall will also assist your turf in fighting off spring fungal diseases. A dense turf decreases the appearance of invading weeds. A November season-end fertilizing is also recommended, near or after the last mowing while the turf is still green. A quick-release nitrogenous product, at a rate of a half pound to one pound per 1000 square feet, will work best.
Liming – Cool-season turf prefers a pH of 6.0 – 7.2. If the results of your soil evaluation showed that the pH is below 6.0, you will likely need to add lime to raise the pH to a level which is optimal for your turf. Drop or spinner spreaders are suitable for spreading lime. Pelletized limestone, which is limestone in larger particles held together by a water-soluble material and which is less dusty, may be a good choice. Use only the recommended amount and never use hydrated lime or burned lime, as it will damage established turf.

These tasks can be spread out into October, while the weather is still enjoyable. Keep thinking about that beautiful spring grass!

For even more information, see Rutgers Fact Sheet 102 Your Lawn and its Care.

Two empty Adirondack chairs face away from the viewer. They sit in shadow on a lawn of verdant grass. — USDA Photo by Lance Cheung.

Somerset County Hosting Composting Workshop September 19, 2024

By Jessica Shick • September 3, 2024

Register Today for Composting at Home – September 19th at 10 a.m. at Rutgers Cooperative Extension of Somerset County. The event is free, with an optional cost of $50 per person if attendees wish to purchase a compost bin. To register, please contact Recycling Coordinator Melissa Harvey, Somerset County Division of Solid Waste Management, at harvey@co.somerset.nj.us or (908) 231-7109.

A flyer for the event titled Composting at Home with details about the date, time, and instructions for registration

The Somerset County Division of Solid Waste Management and Rutgers Cooperative Extension of Somerset County will be hosting a composting workshop this autumn for Somerset County residents and employees on Thursday, September 19^th, 2024.

This event will take place at the Ted Blum 4-H Center – 310 Milltown Rd, Bridgewater, NJ – and will run from 10:00-11:00 am. Jessica Shick, Environmental Program Coordinator with RCE-Somerset County, will deliver a composting presentation at the 4-H Center. Attendees will then be invited to a walkthrough/demonstration of composting methods in the Teaching Garden – a quick, five-minute walk from the 4-H Center.

Composting can decrease the amount of discarded waste, fertilize soil by recycling nutrients from organic matter, improve aeration of soil, reduce soil disease, and conserve natural resources.

Plant This, Not That: Honeysuckle

By Jessica Shick • August 2, 2024

Written by Mimi J, Somerset County Rutgers Master Gardener

Although its appearance and fragrance remind many of us of summer, invasive honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) can cause ecological harm. Being a vine, it can both form a mat on the forest floor and climb up trees and shrubs. Its robust growth can shade out native understory plants and kill shrubs and saplings by crowding and girdling them.

There is a beautiful, native, alternative – the coral or trumpet honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens). Its red tubular flowers bloom from late spring through fall and attract hummingbirds, bees and butterflies. It also serves as a host plant to the spring azure butterfly (Celastrina ladon) and the snowberry clearwing moth (Hemaris thysbe). Coral honeysuckle produces berries in the late summer to early fall, which are enjoyed by many species of birds. As a bonus, it’s both drought tolerant and deer resistant.

To get the most flowers from this native vine, plant it in a sunny location with rich, moist, well-draining soil.

For more information on alternatives to invasive species, see Rutgers Fact Sheet 1353: Invasive Plants and Native Alternatives for Landscapes.

This article originally ran in the September/October 2023 issue of “In the Garden,” the Somerset County Rutgers Master Gardener newsletter.

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