Autumn

Know Your Natives: Solidago sp.

By Jessica Shick • September 30, 2024

Written by Debbie C., Somerset County Rutgers Master Gardener

Solidago species, commonly known as goldenrod, signal the changing of seasons from summer to autumn. A short-day, herbaceous, perennial in the Composite or Asteraceae family, different Solidago species bloom from July through October. Often challenging as a group to identify down to species, the golden yellow inflorescences consist of ray and disc flowers. One process, the Peterson Identification System, attempts to simplify the task by grouping flower forms as wand-like, plume-like, club-like, elm branched or flat topped.

Goldenrod grows from rhizomes, and some species can be aggressive, forming colonies. Native bees, honeybees, wasps, butterflies, moths, and beetles consume the pollen and nectar and act as insect pollinators of Solidago sp., spreading the heavy, sticky pollen. Nectar produced by goldenrod very often provides one of the final food sources for migratory butterflies. The plant also attracts predatory insects such as parasitoid tachinid flies which specialize in attacking squash and stink bugs. Parasitoid flies lay eggs on goldenrod growing points. The hatchling larva penetrate the stems which produce galls in response. Small galls in turn attract parasitoid wasps and beetles to insert their eggs, producing larva which feed on the original occupant larva. Larger galls are preferred by birds such as chickadees and small woodpeckers in the Spring. Additionally, goldenrod seeds feed some birds.

The Native Plant Society of New Jersey lists eleven species of Solidago as native to Somerset County, including the only white variety, Solidago bicolor. Depending on the species, goldenrod can be found in woodlands, openings, edges including roadsides, old pasture, and moist open thickets. Goldenrods are deer resistant. Incorrectly blamed for allergies this time of year, goldenrod blooms concurrently with another Composite family member: wind-pollinated, green-flowered, hay fever-producing ragweed. Historically, goldenrod found use in herbal medicine, dyes and in “Liberty Tea” made by colonists after the Boston Tea Party and the boycotting of British tea.

Fun fact – Goldenrod was first used as a yellow color name in 1915 and the Crayola Company coined it as a crayon color in 1958 in the 64-crayon box.

For more information about Solidago sp. and other native plants of New Jersey, or incorporating them into your home landscape, see the following links:

Rutgers Fact Sheet 1140: Incorporating Native Plants in Your Residential Landscape

Landscape Plants Rated by Deer Resistance

A close up of the yellow solidago flower against a background of green blades of grass — Matt Lavin, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Pollinator Gardens in Autumn

By Jessica Shick • September 26, 2024

Written by Kris G., Somerset County Rutgers Master Gardener

Many pollinators depend on leaf litter, herbaceous plant stalks, and plant debris to lay their eggs for overwintering. If we remove these items in the fall, then we are essentially removing the next generation of pollinators. Instead of disposing of leaf litter, dead herbaceous plant stalks, and plant debris from the pollinator garden, create a brush pile to put these items in so the next generation of pollinators can survive and flourish in the spring.

Having a general understanding of a native pollinator plant is helpful, but knowing what is offered to pollinators in the way of food and shelter is equally important. Planting a host plant, such as northern spice bush (Lindera benzoin), can offer both food and shelter to the spicebush swallowtail butterfly (Papillio Troilus). Similarly, swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) and common milkweed (Asclepias syrica) are host plants for the monarch butterfly (Danaus plexippus) as are other species of milkweed. If you have a host plant in your pollinator garden, chances are there will be countless eggs on leaf litter, inside dead hollow plant stalks, and plant debris so leaving the garden alone until springtime, once the eggs have had a chance to hatch would be ideal. Another option to ensure the health and safety of the next generation of pollinators would be to relocate the leaf litter, dead plant stalks, and plant debris to a brush pile in your yard.

Creating a colorful chart with the name of your native pollinator plant, a photo of the plant, the type of food (pollen, nectar, or both) offered, bloom time of the year, if the plant provides shelter, and whether the plant is a host plant to a specific pollinator would make for a fun fall project while helping you learn more about the bigger “pollinator picture.”

See below for links to additional information on pollinator survival:

Visit the Pollinator Garden at Rutgers Gardens.
Penn State Extension: Fall Garden Care for Pollinators
University of New Hampshire: How to Help Bees and Butterflies Survive Winter

Mountain mint, anise hyssop, Echinacea, and rudbeckia grow in a long garden lining a sidewalk. — Photo by Lauren Randolph, 2024. Franklin Township Library Pollinator Garden

Autumn’s coming… Time for turf renewal!

By Jessica Shick • September 3, 2024

Written by Laura H., Somerset County Rutgers Master Gardener

As the days grow shorter and temperatures cool, plants begin to prepare for the long winter ahead. Turf, in particular, requires our attention at this time of year. Timely fall upkeep will pay off in just a few short months, with verdant green turf carpets in spring! Here’s the game plan:

Weed control – Fall is an optimal time to manage many types of perennial weeds, which are difficult to control at other times of the year. Post-emergent herbicides are available which manage many types of broadleaf weeds. Ensure that the weeds you wish to control are listed on the product label.
Soil evaluation – Having your soil evaluated provides valuable information on specific fertilizer and pH amendment needs. Your evaluation results will make recommendations that will prevent you from adding fertilizer or lime that you may not need. The Rutgers Soil Testing Laboratory tests soil for a nominal fee.
Aeration – Aeration is an essential aspect of turf health in that it aids root growth by increasing access to oxygen. It mitigates soil compaction and provides a route for grass seed and amendments, such as lime, compost, and fertilizer to enter the soil. Aeration should be done when soil is somewhat moist. Aerators are typically set at 4” X 8” with ½” to ¾” tines; you will need to make several passes over your lawn for adequate aeration. They can be rented at hardware stores.
Organic additions – Adding organic matter helps to provide turf with the materials that it needs to stay vibrant and healthy as well as to improve soil health. There is no need to purchase special organic matter for your lawn. Mulched grass clippings less than 1” long can be left in the soil, recycling nitrogen and other nutrients. Mulched leaves can also serve as organic amendments for turf. Place your mower on the highest setting, mow the leaf pile. Mulching mowers can cut up to 6” of leaf height at a time but large piles may require several passes. Leaf mulch can then be spread over the lawn where the fine pieces will disintegrate by spring.
Overseeding – Select cool-season grass seed, such as fine fescue, tall fescue, perennial ryegrass, and Kentucky bluegrass when overseeding. Small patches can be managed by broadcasting seed with nitrogen fertilizer at a rate of one pound per 1000 square feet or by loosening the soil and sprinkling seed, then raking or covering over with 1/4 – 3/8” soil. For larger areas, slit seeders, available for rental at hardware stores, will effectively seed the lawn. Run the slit seeder twice, in perpendicular directions, at half the seeding rate indicated on the label for a well-seeded lawn. Mulch lightly with straw after seeding and irrigate until new grass is established. Begin mowing when the grass is at least 3” tall. Fertilize six weeks after germination.
Dethatching – A layer of roots, shoots, and stems, called thatch, can build up over time. Thatch layers over 1” deep can harbor pests, make roots vulnerable to drying out and oxygen starvation, place turf and crown at risk of mower damage, and act as a barrier between the soil surface and the roots. Dethatching machines can be rented at hardware stores. Removing too much thatch can be detrimental to the turf, thinning it excessively. Thatch which is 2” deep or more likely is the home of turf roots so removing too much thatch will also remove plants. Plan to seed areas of thinned-out turf, if necessary. Never dethatch when turf is stressed by heat or drought.
Fertilizing – Fertilize in September after the daytime high temperatures are below 90 F. A product with a mix of slow- and quick-release nitrogen, at a rate of one pound per 1000 square feet, will provide nutrients for stored energy as well as enhanced root development. Fertilizing in fall will also assist your turf in fighting off spring fungal diseases. A dense turf decreases the appearance of invading weeds. A November season-end fertilizing is also recommended, near or after the last mowing while the turf is still green. A quick-release nitrogenous product, at a rate of a half pound to one pound per 1000 square feet, will work best.
Liming – Cool-season turf prefers a pH of 6.0 – 7.2. If the results of your soil evaluation showed that the pH is below 6.0, you will likely need to add lime to raise the pH to a level which is optimal for your turf. Drop or spinner spreaders are suitable for spreading lime. Pelletized limestone, which is limestone in larger particles held together by a water-soluble material and which is less dusty, may be a good choice. Use only the recommended amount and never use hydrated lime or burned lime, as it will damage established turf.

These tasks can be spread out into October, while the weather is still enjoyable. Keep thinking about that beautiful spring grass!

For even more information, see Rutgers Fact Sheet 102 Your Lawn and its Care.

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