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Benefits of Grow Bag Gardening

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Written by R.P. R., Rutgers Master Gardener of Somerset County

Grow bags aren’t a new concept. Ancient Egyptians would weave plant baskets and the Greeks used woven containers on their rooftop gardens as they could be easily moved. Many British gardeners have long used grow bags as an alternative to planting directly into greenhouse soil. Recently there has been growing interest in using them as an alternative container for growing plants on balconies, decks, patios and in the garden. 

Grow bags are a great solution where space is limited. Because grow bags are lightweight, they are easy to move to the best location based on the amount of sunlight a plant needs. Look for a sunny spot in cool climates or give them shade in hot climates. They are also easy to store when not in use. 

Several grow bags sit in a row containing herbs, yellow flowers, and plants with ripening tomatoes on them.
Photo by Kevin Espiritu/Epic Gardening

Happy Roots 

Grow bags are made of breathable material, so the fabric allows air to reach plant roots and prevent plants from becoming rootbound. As a root reaches the side of the container it encounters drier soil and more air. As a result, the root stops growing. Called “air pruning,” the plant is encouraged to grow new roots, giving it a robust root system with many small root hairs that take in water and nutrients. The plant puts more energy into top growth as well. They also drain well. It is hard to overwater a grow bag, but they do require more water than some traditional containers, and the soil can dry out quickly. Finally, as with other containers, grow bags require more frequent fertilization than raised or in-ground beds. 

Crop Rotation 

Even in large vegetable gardens, successful crop rotation can be a challenge. Grow bags allow gardeners to avoid the problems of soil-borne pathogens by using clean soil. 

Right Plant Right Bag 

Grow bags come in a variety of sizes. It’s important to consider how large the plant will grow as well as how much root space it will need. Wide and shallow bags work well with crops such as lettuce, onions and garlic. Taller bags are best for more deep- rooted plants such as carrots, tomatoes and peppers. As a rule of thumb, start with, at a minimum, a 5-gallon bag for one plant. 

Right Bag Right Soil 

Typical garden soil is very heavy and will become compacted, so the most appropriate soil for a grow bag is a combination of compost, vermiculite, coconut coir, or peat moss. When using this mix, the soil remains light and airy; it does not get crusted or compacted. It is important to fill bags all the way up with soil to take advantage of the room inside the grow bag. 

References: 

Grow Bag Gardening: Tips Tо Ѕtаrt Grоwіng Уоur Оwn Hеrbѕ, Vеgеtаblеѕ, And Flоwеrѕ Іn Containers, Hank Stiebel. 

The Can’t Live Without Beginners Guide to Grow Bag Gardening: Grow Show -Stopping Flowers, Fruits, Herbs and Vegetables in Eco-Friendly Small Spaces, Harper Fields. 

Grow Bag Gardening: Complete Guide to Grow Vegetables, Herbs, Fruits, and Flowers in Lightweight, Eco-friendly Fabric Pots or Bags – Perfect … Gardens, Balconies, Backyard, Patio or Rooftop, Mark Nuel, Ph.D. 

https://www.bobvila.com/articles/grow-bags

https://www.almanac.com/discover-grow-bags-alternative-plant-container

https://growinginthegarden.com/gardening-in-grow-bags-5-tips-for-success

The SCRMG Sensory Garden Hosts 4-H Campers

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Written by Mousumi P., Somerset County Rutgers Master Gardener

Earlier this summer, campers from 4-H TOPS Camp visited the Somerset County Rutgers Master Gardener’s Sensory Garden. Guided by the Rutgers Master Gardeners, the campers learned about all the ways a garden can incorporate plants and even non-plant items to enhance our five senses. We talked about colors, shapes, heights, and textures in the garden. The Herb section with its fragrant fennel, oregano, and thyme reminded the campers of their favorite foods. The listening exercise gave us a chance to be still and “hear” the garden with its soft sounds of birds, bees, windchimes, and even some planes and cars.

We toured the Edibles section and saw the strawberries, tomatoes and other vegetables and discussed our favorite yummies. The highlight of the visit however was the Scavenger Hunt. With their partners, the campers enjoyed fully exploring the garden to search for all the items… Some were a little tricky! We ended our visit by planting sunflower seeds in pots made of newspaper for the campers to take home to start their own garden.  We had a great time with the 4-H TOPS Camp campers and hope to see them again next summer!

Two children peruse the scented and textured plants at the Rutgers Master Gardener Sensory Garden
Photo by Mousumi Patel, 2024. Somerset County Rutgers Master Gardeners Teaching Garden

Pollinator Gardens in Autumn

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Written by Kris G., Somerset County Rutgers Master Gardener

Many pollinators depend on leaf litter, herbaceous plant stalks, and plant debris to lay their eggs for overwintering. If we remove these items in the fall, then we are essentially removing the next generation of pollinators. Instead of disposing of leaf litter, dead herbaceous plant stalks, and plant debris from the pollinator garden, create a brush pile to put these items in so the next generation of pollinators can survive and flourish in the spring.

Having a general understanding of a native pollinator plant is helpful, but knowing what is offered to pollinators in the way of food and shelter is equally important. Planting a host plant, such as northern spice bush (Lindera benzoin), can offer both food and shelter to the spicebush swallowtail butterfly (Papillio Troilus). Similarly, swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) and common milkweed (Asclepias syrica) are host plants for the monarch butterfly (Danaus plexippus) as are other species of milkweed. If you have a host plant in your pollinator garden, chances are there will be countless eggs on leaf litter, inside dead hollow plant stalks, and plant debris so leaving the garden alone until springtime, once the eggs have had a chance to hatch would be ideal. Another option to ensure the health and safety of the next generation of pollinators would be to relocate the leaf litter, dead plant stalks, and plant debris to a brush pile in your yard.

Creating a colorful chart with the name of your native pollinator plant, a photo of the plant, the type of food (pollen, nectar, or both) offered, bloom time of the year, if the plant provides shelter, and whether the plant is a host plant to a specific pollinator would make for a fun fall project while helping you learn more about the bigger “pollinator picture.”

See below for links to additional information on pollinator survival:

Visit the Pollinator Garden at Rutgers Gardens.
Penn State Extension: Fall Garden Care for Pollinators
University of New Hampshire: How to Help Bees and Butterflies Survive Winter

Mountain mint, anise hyssop, Echinacea, and rudbeckia grow in a long garden lining a sidewalk.
Photo by Lauren Randolph, 2024. Franklin Township Library Pollinator Garden

Native Bee and Native Plant Garden Sign Refresh

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Our sign at the Environmental Education Center (EEC) just got a refresh! It features information about the Native Bee Garden which is a project by two Rutgers Environmental Stewards, Ellen L. and Shona E. The sign also includes details about the nearby Native Plant Garden, which is maintained by a dedicated group of Rutgers Master Gardeners, as well as instructions for accessing the both gardens’ companion guides . Both gardens are located in a lovely area of the park, off an accessible boardwalk trail for those who are looking for a short walk.

Go check it out any time from dawn until dusk at 190 Lord Stirling Road, Basking Ridge, NJ 07920!

A signpost with a green poster that reads "Native Bee Garden, Native Plant Garden" sits in front of a garden. In the background is a wooden bee hotel.
Photo by Dan Ross, 2024. Environmental Education Center